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VILANCULOS TOWN
Also known as
Vilankulo
Author Rosemary Forrester
(meaning the
big village)
A small and lively town, Vilanculos lies on the coast of Mozambique some
750 kilometres from Maputo in the State of Inhambane. The town is split
into two sections, the old and the new, linked by an asphalt road of
about 1 kilometre. Passing the police post about 100 metres from the T
junction to Vilanculos the new part of town lies to the left and the old
to the right, with two banks, Barclays (Banco Austral) and BCI, right at
this point. Barclays has an ATM which accepts most well known credit
cards.
Turning to the right there is a pharmacy, a stationary shop, five minute
photo shop, the bakery well marked with pink walls and Multi-pecas for
oils, filters, car and truck parts, spark plugs etc. Small barracas
(shacks) sell everything from cell phones to DVDs, satellite dishes to
fans, its only a question of looking for what you might need. People
speak a smattering of English and there is always the streetwise young
lad prepared to show you around for a small reward. Along from the bread
shop is a another good stationer called Papelaria Wassila and below that
a mini supermarket and wholesale warehouse owned by Yussef and Aisha.
The market at the end of the street is definitely worth a look but do go
sensibly dressed and without a lot of money. Better to tuck a few notes
into a hidden pocket than carry a large and obvious wallet. With its
thronging crowds and narrow little paths winding between tiny kiosks it
comes straight out of a story book. Like most interesting market places
there is lots to see, dried oysters, hand rolled tobacco, herbal cures,
semi-alcoholic drinks made from maize meal, lovely kapalanas (lengths of
cloth) the traditional dress that women wear as wrap around skirts, and
a slew of stuff in between, like shirts, jeans, shoes, childrens’
clothes.
Down the street to the right is a very cheap Chinese shop for all sorts
of things you never thought you wanted and beyond this is the South
African franchise store Kangela for all building requirements. Opposite
is Moio a wholesale warehouse for bags of rice, mealie meal, crates of
cool drinks, etc. Everywhere are small kiosks and people squatting on
the ground, selling cigarettes, bananas, tomatoes, alcohol, cooking oil,
buns, coconut cookies. It is fun and lively, people are good humoured
and happy, laughing and shouting to each other.
Walking in the other direction there is another supermarket called
S.E.A., owned by the mayor of Vilankulo and behind it down a small hill,
a fuel station and another large warehouse for bulk buying of
supplies. Be aware that the town closes between 1200pm and 2pm for most
shops, and some from 1pm to 3pm. So don’t get caught out in the middle
of the day with a long shopping list. Next to S.E.A. is a bottle store
called Handling which sells crates of beer, cokes, and other soft
drinks, demijohn wine, and Mozambican rum Tipo Tinto. You can buy a
cell phone or airtime in the Vodacom shop opposite Handling or else get
airtime on the street from the little lads who make extra pocket money
after school.
Driving in the opposite direction from the old town there is a Total fuel
station on the left and Pep store (South African Franchise) on the
right. Next to Total is the Pensao Central, a downtown place to stay
with a conference centre. Here on the right a brand new market has been
constructed together with a bus terminal for the long distance buses
which normally leave in the early morning. This market is not half as
exotic as the old town market but has an abundant supply of fresh
vegetables and fruits, eggs, fish and dubious pieces of hacked up
goat. Moving along past the hospital which is now under construction
having been severely damaged by the cyclone several years ago, the road
passes Na Sombra, another downtown accommodation with nice friendly
restaurant and good food. Just beyond is Luxus Complex with restaurant
and small shops on the left and Taurus Supermarket on the right followed
by Banco Millenium BIM the national bank, now with two ATM machines
taking most cards. Following the road on around the corner to the right
offers another supermarket, Saverite and between S.E.A., Taurus and
Saverite most items on the shopping list can be found.
From here the road branches north passing the traditional Casa
Rex hotel, the Port Captain’s office (for boat licenses)_the
Conference Centre, Praia de Paraiso.
Branching south from Saverite grocery store the road passes Smugglers
Inn, a lively and laid back hotel, the Dona
Ana, under
renovation on the promontory overlooking the shallow harbour and fishing
boats, Sailaway,
both overnight and day trips by Dhow,Palmeiras
Beach Chalets bungalows around a swimming pool, and Dolphin
Dhow offering dhow trips to the islands. This sand road continues
past Joseph and Tina, Zombie Cucumber and Baobab, all budget
accommodation the road to Baobab needs 4 wheel drive.
There is a lot of accommodation available in Vilanculos, starting with
South Beach some 4 kms from the town. A turn-off to the right on the
main road leading into town, there
is another turning at the airport road and the signboards for
Chibububo Chalets and Blue
Waters lead to this extremely pleasant and well laid out resort area,
bar, swimming pool and restaurant on the beach and Dive
Bazaruto Diving and water sports boat hire and deep sea fishing
centre . Dona Soraya
Home stay just up the road has a large conference centre and Halaal
food with accommodation. |